Film Fundamentals: A Beginner's Guide to Film

A lot of the time, we put so much emphasis on finding the right camera that we forget finding the right film is just as important. The film is the chemical behind the images; it's the main character of film photography, and it is in the name. Yet, if you are starting in film photography, having to learn even more knowledge on top of what you have just learnt about using a film camera can be overwhelming. However, do not fear; here is a brief rundown of film, what to look out for, and where you can get it developed. 

The different types of film 

There are multiple types of film however depending on your camera you need to buy a specific size of film for it to fit the camera. On our website, we try to list the size of film you'll need in the title and description, to ensure you select the right size. However, here is a quick rundown of the different sizes of film 

• 35mm - 35mm (36 x 24mm ) is the standard that most film cameras use, from SLR to Rangefinder to Half frame cameras.
• 120 - 120 film (6 x 4.5cm) is a much larger film that produces a square shape. They are for medium format cameras, they have fewer shot ranging from 4 to 16 exposures depending on the size
• 110 and 126 films are a much smaller film size that has a lower resolution compared to the 35mm film
• Motion picture films come in various sizes, including 8mm, 16mm, 35mm, and 70mm—these are used for Super 8 cameras or movie cameras. 

Another key consideration is whether you prefer black and white or colour film. With colour film, hue can vary depending on the brand and ISO. Experimenting with different films can help you discover what you're most drawn to. A helpful tip: try using Lomography’s website, where you can search for a specific film and see examples from other photographers. Even within the same brand, the film style and ISO, can produce different results. 

ISO, what is it, and how do I know what ISO to use?

ISO which can be found on the package of the film and film box talks about the light sensitivity of the film. The higher the number the more sensitive it is to light, when the camera exposes it during the shooting process. The more sensitive the ISO, the easier it is to expose to light, meaning you'll need a higher ISO number (more sensitive film) for a lower light setting. 

Here is my guide on measuring the ISO depending on the setting:

• ISO 100 - ISO 200 = super sunny, think of being in Spain kind of weather 
• ISO 400 = The perfect middle ground for outdoor photography that works best in the sun but can also handle clouds 
• ISO 800 - 1600 = indoor photography and super cloudy days 
• ISO 3200 = Think concert photography and super dark environments 

You might be wondering - what if one day I'm shooting in bright sunlight and the next it's cloudy? That is perfectly fine, in manual mode, you can adjust the shutter speed and aperture to get the right exposure. Personally, I like to keep things simple and focus on the moment rather than fiddling with settings. That's why I always shoot with ISO 400 or higher - it's a great middle ground that works well in most lighting conditions. 

 However, these are not definitive rules, as there are ways to use lower ISO film in darker environments. One method is to rate the film at a higher ISO and ask the developing lab to ‘push’ the film during development - essentially leaving it in the chemical longer to bring out more detail. Keep in mind that this can affect the image quality. For beginners though, sticking to the standard ISO guidelines is a solid starting point as you get used to the different types of film.

Expired film 

Now you might be wondering why I would shoot with expired film. Well, to simply put it, it is not only cheaper but expired film is the perfect way to enhance colours and textures. The only downfall is that you don't know what those colours and textures will be until you develop them. However, this element of surprise is what makes expired films so popular. 

How do you shoot with expired film? 

Shooting with expired film does carry some risks, but there are a few tips to help you get the best result. First, check the expiry date - generally, the older the film the more textured the image will be. If you’re looking to have an expired effect but still clearly capture your subject, try using film that only goes back from 1 - 10 years. Another key component when shooting with expired film is to adjust your camera settings, when setting your ISO, overexpose the film by 1 stop for every 10 years from the expiry date. For example:

If the film is ISO 400 and expired in 2000, you would overexpose by 2 stops, meaning you would set your ISO on the camera to 100.

Where to develop 

Developing film at home can be a long and meticulous process. You need to maintain the right temperature and have all the necessary chemicals on hand. I've only done it once, but learning and completing the process successfully can be incredibly rewarding. That said, I usually prefer to send my film off to be developed and avoid the extra stress. Although sending your precious film off may be daunting, I have found in my photographic career that once I found a good developing place and knew that they worked well and produced high-quality scans of my film, I would be a customer for life. So, ensure that you trust the process, read the reviews, and make sure you have a good padded envelope and the right address.

Gone are the days of dropping your film or disposable camera off at Boots. However, with the resurgence of film as a popular art form, many new photo labs have been popping up across the UK. I always recommend supporting local and small businesses on the high street where possible. However, if you don't have a lab nearby, there are great mail-in options available. A  couple of my recommendations are Jack’s Lab, a Bristol-based independent small business, and Filmprocessing.co.uk, a well-established company that has been developing films since 1983. 

You can find all of our films new and expired on our website here.